Crochet toys before, so crochet toys have so many crochet. Several times they started from the designs of others.
Then I made a great door post, inspired by some of the designs I studied.
Since I did not find a free pattern despite my search, I decided to create it myself. Therefore, there was no choice but to sit freely and crochet and possibly make your own pattern. At first it didn’t go very well and I couldn’t even get a pretty big head. It’s too big. But when looking for new designs, inspiration comes, so I am no stranger to it.
Velvet thread needs to be carefully drawn, several stitches each time, so yes, this took time. Then I had no eyes at home and I had to put them before stopping my head and closing it again, I had to buy some leather buttons I had at home. However, it was brandy in color, so they barely appeared with beige thread as a background. So, I preferred to paint them black with a marker pen.

It includes all the threads you need for this pattern (plus the remaining thread of the softest DMC Woolly for heart-shaped noses) and big beautiful (16mm) black eyes on the glass. There is a loop behind the eyes, so it is easy to sew.

You can choose between making the teddy bear and the rabbit separately or together. You can do both. Let’s start.

SIZE:
About 45 cm long.

NEED:
– 3 pcs 100 gr fresh beige DMC Velvet (teddy bear) or gray DMV Velvet (rabbit)
– 1 pc 100 grams of light pink DMC Velvet (about 50 grams goes to one animal)
– 1 pair of eyes or 2 buttons
– about 4 gr of residual yarn from DMC Woolly to nose and sewn details
– about 200 gr batting
– pin 5
– stop needle
– markers
– possibly strong flower stick, about 30 cm long in plastic or other durable material. This is placed as a “spine” between / through body and head so that the head does not nod.

YOU NEED TO KNOW:
When crocheting amigurumi you need to know how to increase (2 sc in the same st) and decrease (2 sts crocheted to 1 sc) with sc. However, velvet yarn is very forgiving. The fuzziness means that small irregularities that can occur during, for example, reductions are not so visible. Canon for beginners, then!

You crochet around, around and use a marker or yarn end to keep track of where your turns start and end. Finish your pieces with 1 cm and leave ends that are about 15-20 cm long so you can use them to sew the pieces together.

If you need to scratch, gently scratch one mesh at a time or the yarn may go off or lose “fluff”.

The velvet yarn is not suitable to start with a magic ring (which is most common when crocheting amigurumi) so we start each part with 2 ch and then we crochet our sc in the first ch.

Explanation: The text within () is repeated as many times as it is immediately after ().

HEAD:
Nallen Love: beige yarn
Rabbit Lovenina: gray yarn
Row 1. 2 ch. 7 sc around the first ch = 7 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 14 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x7 = 21 dc
v 4. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 st) x7 = 28 dc
v 5. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) x 7 = 35 dc
v 6. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 4 sts) x7 = 42 dc
v 7. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 5 sts) x7 = 49 dc
v 8-18. 1 sc in each m = 49 sc

Time to fix your eyes on your head.
NOTE! If the teddy bear / rabbit is to live with a very small child, you should use safety eyes and not those included in my material kit.
Teddy bear: Place them on lap 11 at about 6 m intervals.
Rabbit: Place them on lap 13 at about 6 m intervals.
v 19. (1 dc in the first 5 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 42 dc
v 20. (1 dc in the first 4 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 35 dc
v 21. (1 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 28 dc

Time to stop the head hard with the batting but not as a round ball but more like a round thick plate, ie flatter at the face and back of the head.
v 22. (1 dc in the first 2 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 21 dc
v 23. (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc until) x7 = 14 dc
v 24. (2 sc until) x7 = 7 sc
v 25. (2 sc until) x3, 1 sc = 4 sc
Remove yarn (leave one end to sew).

WINNIE THE EARS:
Crochet 2 pieces in the beige yarn.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x6 = 18 dc
v 4-6. 1 dc in each dc = 18 dc
v 7. (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc until) x6 = 12 dc
Remove yarn (leave one end to sew).

RABBIT EARS:
Crochet 2 pieces in the gray yarn.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 1 dc in each dc = 6 dc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x3 = 9 dc
v 4. 1 sc in each m = 9 sc
v 5. (2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 2 st) x3 = 12 sc
v 6-7. 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc
v 8. (2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 st) x2 = 14 sc
v 9. 1 sc in each m = 14 sc
v 10. (2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 6 st) x2 = 16 sc
v 11-12. 1 dc in each dc = 16 dc
v 13. (2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 7 st) x2 = 18 sc
v 14-27. 1 dc in each dc = 18 dc
v 28. (1 sc in the first 4, 2 sc until) x3 = 15 sc
v 29-41. 1 dc in each dc = 15 dc
Remove yarn (leave one end to sew).
Fold your ear double at the bottom and sew the edges together.

NALLENOS:
Crochet with light pink yarn.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x6 = 18 dc
v 4. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts) x6 = 24 dc
v 5. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) x6 = 30 dc
v 6. 1 dc in each dc = 30 dc
v 7. (1 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 dc until) x6 = 24 dc
Remove the yarn. Leave one end to sew the nose with.

KANINNOS:
Crochet with light pink yarn.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
This nose should be slightly elliptical.
v 3. 1 dc in first st, (2 dc in next st) x3, 1 dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc in next st) x3, 1 dc in next 2 sts = 18 dc
v 4. 1 sc in each m = 18 sc
v 5. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts) x6 = 24 dc
v 6. 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc
Remove the yarn. Leave one end to sew the nose with.

BODY:
Nalle: beige yarn
Rabbit: gray yarn
Row 1. 2 ch. 7 sc around the first ch = 7 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 14 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x7 = 21 dc
v 4. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 st) x7 = 28 dc
v 5. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) x 7 = 35 dc
v 6. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 4 sts) x7 = 42 dc
v 7. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 5 sts) x7 = 49 dc
v 8-11. 1 sc in each m = 49 sc
v 12. (1 dc in the first 5 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 42 dc
v 13-15. 1 sc in each m = 42 sc
v 16. (1 dc in the first 4 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 35 dc
v 17. 1 dc in each dc = 35 dc
v 18. (1 dc in the first 3 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 28 dc
v 19-21. 1 dc in each dc = 28 dc

Time to start stuffing the body with batting. It stops pretty hard.
v 22. (1 dc in the first 2 sts, 2 dc until) x7 = 21 dc
v 23-25: 1 dc in each dc = 21 dc
v 26. (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc until) x7 = 14 dc
v 27. 1 sc in each m = 14 sc
Stop the body up to the edge.
Remove the yarn. Leave one end to sew with.

ARMS:
Nalle: beige yarn
Rabbit: gray yarn
Crochet 2 pieces.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x6 = 18 dc
v 4. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 5 sts) x3 = 21 dc
v 5-7. 1 sc in each m = 21 sc
v 8. (1 dc in the first st, 2 dc until) x7 = 14 dc
v 9. (1 dc in the first 5 sts, 2 dc until) x2 = 12 dc

Stop the hand quite hard with the batting.
v 10-24. 1 dc in each dc = 12 dc
Remove the yarn (leave one end to sew the arms with).
Fill the arm with just a little batting. It should feel limp. Sew the opening straight together.

BONE:
Teddy: light pink soles and then beige yarn
Rabbit: light pink soles and then gray yarn
Crochet 2 pieces.

Start with the light pink yarn = foot soles.
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x6 = 18 dc
v 4. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts) x6 = 24 dc
v 5. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) x6 = 30 dc
v 6. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 4 sts) x6 = 36 dc

Remove the yarn and change to beige or gray yarn.
v 7. 1 sc in each m = 36 sc
v 8. 1 dc in the first 7 sts, 2 dc until, (1 dc, 2 dc until) x7, 1 dc in the next 6 dc = 28 dc
v 9. 1 sc in each m = 28 sc

Tip! If you want and want to “hide” the little sick-sack-like color change, now take a new yarn end and either crochet or sew chain stitch along the color change edge.
v 10. 1 sc in the first 9 sts, 2 sc until, 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 3 sc until, 1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc until, 1 sc in the next 8 st = 24 sc
v 11. 1 dc in each dc = 24 dc
v 12. 1 dc in the first 8 sts, 2 dc until, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, 3 dc until, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc until, 1 dc in the next 5 sts = 20 dc
v 13. 1 sc in each m = 20 sc

Stop the foot loosely with the batting. The sole of the foot should not bend.
v 14. 1 dc in the first 5 sts, 2 dc until, 1 dc in the next 9 sts, 2 dc until, 1 dc in the next 2 sts = 18 dc
v 15-20. 1 dc in each dc = 18 dc
v 21. (1 dc in the first 4 sts, 2 dc until) x3 = 15 dc
v 22-25. 1 dc in each dc = 15 dc
Remove yarn (leave one end to sew).
Loosely fill the legs with batting. The foot should feel firm while the leg should feel flabby (like the arms). Sew the opening straight together. The stitch should go vertical if you have the heel towards you and the toe away from you.

TAIL:
Nalle: beige yarn
Rabbit: gray or light pink yarn
Row 1. 2 ch. 6 sc around the first ch = 6 sc
v 2. 2 sc in each m = 12 sc
v 3. (2 dc in first st, 1 dc in next d) x6 = 18 dc
v 4. 1 sc in each m = 18 sc
v 5. (2 sc until) x9 = 9 sc in the first
Fill the tail slightly with batting.
Remove yarn (leave one end to sew).

MOUNTING:
The nose is the most difficult part to get to. You want the heart to end perfectly and the stitches to appear in the velvet fluff. In addition, they should be placed so that your teddy bear or rabbit receives such a wonderfully happy and kind supervision. So let’s start with the nose!
NOTE! The rabbit’s nose is slightly elliptical. It should be placed horizontally, ie it is wider than it is high.

nose:
I continued to use double yarn by DMC Woolly when I sewed my heart. Use the ends that were left over when crocheting it.
-Place the heart tip in the middle of the nose and sew the heart to the upper part of the nose with small invisible stitches along the edge.
NOTE! Make sure to shape the heart so that the heart arches do not get too close together (then you do not see that it is a heart).

-Because you have crocheted your nose around, you have as annual rings to follow when it is time to embroider your mouth. I think chain stitches worked best as they become wide and do not sink into the velvet.
TIP! I did not attach any yarn ends, but just tied them together on the inside of the work.

– Sew the nose to the head just under the eyes with the light pink velvet yarn.
-Fill with wadding before sewing the last stitches.

Sewing together other parts of the teddy bear / rabbit is easy! Make use of the yarn ends that you have left.

EARS:
The ears should not be padded but only visible on the head.

Sew the arms to each side of the opening on the body.
HEAD:
Fill the body with a little more batting and then sew the head above the opening and arms. If you do not want the head to “nod” then take a strong flower stick, about 30 cm long in plastic or other durable material, and place it as a “spine” in the middle of the body and up in the head as support, before sewing the head.

LEGS:
The legs are sewn to the sides of the body. Sew along the edge of the legs.

TAIL:
The tail is sewn onto the buttocks.

Now you’re done! Say hello to your new toy animal! Do you keep it on your own behalf or will it be hugged by a toddler? Hope your toy animal finds a loving embrace to live in!